Innaresting piece in this week's New Yorker by Tad Friend about Tony Wheeler, founder of the Lonely Planet travel guides. Though Wheeler and his wife Maureen are still majority shareholders in Lonely Planet, they have given up managerial control over the company and its books. Friend describes their general dissatisfaction with how their guides, recently redesigned and relaunched, have been pared down to more traditional guidebook fare (rather than the copious historical notes, social commentary, and joie-de-voyage that LP was once known for). There's even a cabal of former LP guidebook writers who have been reduced to passing nostalgic stories back and forth over the virtual campfire, recalling in a net discussion group how great it was in the great old great days of "unfettered travel and unedited prose, of princely royalties and heavy drinking and broken marriages." Now that's a positive progression.
I sympathize with Wheeler and his cohorts; even Friend waxes sentimental about when LP guides were a constant friend in his global backpacker phase. Unfortunately, it's hard to marry the practical concerns of a guidebook with the literary concerns of a travelogue. It's especially hard to do this in contemporary guidebook production, which of necessity involves a collaborative network of researchers, writers, editors, and so on to put a book together. Many people who start writing a guidebook are horrified when they realize the immense amount of really tedious detail work that a guidebook involves. I loved your rich metaphor describing the Eiffel Tower, mes ami, but when does it close on Sunday? And how long does it talk to walk to the top? And how much is the senior discount? Et cetera.
Ultimately, the LP books just went through the same transformation as any other travel guides: when they went mass market, they had to start marketing to the masses. Another thing that unnerves me is the article's description of Wheeler's touring style on a road trip through Oman. They drive and hike and run around quickly from site to site, barely taking the time for a toe-touch: "A few minutes into any museum or souk, you’d see Tony’s eyes turn glassy, and he’d twitch his map-of-Africa cap and say, 'On, on.'" And they were traveling for pleasure, supposedly, not updating a guide. I can't stand that sort of madcap rush when I'm traveling, either as a travel writer or a civilian. Sometimes you have to do it, but the quality of the work always suffers. It's telling that Wheeler & co. find several mistakes in the LP Oman guidebook, including a map that's so off-kilter that they end up "going ten miles per hour on a road that had narrowed to a sinister goat track, in a canyon that bore no trace of human passage." Have a great vacation, folks!
When I was on the coast of Belize a few years ago, I ran into a Lonely Planet researcher who had been contracted to write up three Central American countries in two weeks. That's soup to nuts on all three nations--entry and exit, major cities, touring those major cities, non-urban points of interest, everything. He said that he'd arrive in a city, go to the best hotel he could afford, then interrogate the hotel clerk or other guests about restaurants, other hotels, shopping, sights, etc. He'd go see a few places, then get pamphlets for the rest, and everything would go in the book as if personally verified, evaluated, and rated. Another day, another city. And so on. In retrospect, his methodology sounds a lot like Wheeler's -- covering a lot of ground quickly, but in such a hurry you have to question the depth and reliability of the information. Though LP guides are still well loved, especially by younger travelers, they've started to get a reputation in the industry for shaky data.
Equally telling is Wheeler's ironic dislike for tourists. At the end of the piece, he feels compelled to keep hiking up a mountain (leaving Friend and his own wife behind) just so he can get higher up the slope than another group of hikers. A travel guide writer who hates tourists makes about as much sense as a dining critic who hates restaurant-goers. You get the impression that Wheeler would love it if people would buy his books, love his prose, and then never actually go to these places, just so he could keep enjoying his lonely planet in unspoiled solitude.